On the left navigation bar you can find my plant offer of rare Cypripediums.
Every species belongs to a certain group of cultivation with different demands:
Herer is the key for the Genus Cypripedium
PH 6 = sourly (e.g. GRANITE)
PH 6.5 = neutrally
PH 7 = alkalinely (LIME)
s = sunny location
hs = semi shady location
sch = shady location
Here is my information of a possible successful culture of Cypripediums
There are also other possibilities to grow Cypripediums with success - Don´t change your cultivation method if you have success with it!
Group 5 : Cypripedium and other sensitive plants
These plants should be planted into plastic-container(1. or 2.) for alpinehouse or garden-frame - culture or for cultivation into special outdoor beds(3.).
As a soil for container-culture we recommend following mixture:
1. Use a drainage made out of crushed burned clay pebbles (4cm) and a soil which contains 50 % Seramis, 40 % perlite and 10 % compost for ornamentals based on decomposed bark without peat.
2. Use a drainage made out of crushed burned clay pebbles (4cm) and a soil which contains 50 % Seramis, 20 % unwashed pumice gravel, 10 % crushed burned clay pebbles, 10 % perlite and 10 % compost for ornamentals based on decomposed bark without peat.
The roots of the plant will be spread over the soil which is fills up to about 50 % of the container. The rest of the soil should be kept onto the roots. The shoot tip should be covered by another 5 mm of the soil . Cover it with 1,5-2 cm crushed burned clay pebbles
When the plants starts growing you can regularly water them (in the beginning 1 x per week, later 2 x per week with increasing temperature.) There should also be given a liquid fertilizer (0,2%-0,3%) at an interval of 2-3 weeks from March to August. In the beginning of feeding choose a well-balanced fertilizer. Later you should avoiding those which are rich in nitrogen!
3. You dig a bed which is at least 50 cm wide and long and about 30 cm deep. Insert a strong textile mat round the edge of the hole to protect the plant against weeds and pressure from outside roots. Frame the bed with stones and spread a drainage layer by using gravel or other coarse-grained material. Use a soil which contains loam 20 %, Seramis 40 %, crushed burned clay pebbles or Lavalit 10 %, washed pumice gravel 10%, riversand 10 % and 10 % compost for ornamentals based on decomposed bark without peat.
A crumbly structure of the soil up to 20 cm depth is important
If available you can also add pumice gravel and perlite.
This mixture needs to be covered with crushed burned clay pebbles or crushed stones or pine needles. It prevents eventual erosion of the soil and stops it from becoming incrusted. During time of vegetation water regularly. Concerning the containerculture covered under glass experience has told us to water once every two weeks from the end of march till the middle of april. Afterwards water once or twice a week. During dry and hot periods the plants need to be watered up to twice a week. After the foliage goes dormant keep the soil only moderately moist until spring. The bed should be covered by a fleece until spring to guarantee a mild hibernation. Use also a fleece to protect the plants from late spring frost.
There should also be given a liquid fertilizer (0,2%) at an interval of 2-3 weeks from March to August. In the beginning of feeding choose a well-balanced fertilizer. Later you should avoiding those which are rich in nitrogen!
These plants prefer a dry place during wintertime and therefore they need (unlike described in 5 a) a glass cover-plate to protect the plants against too much wettness. In February as well as during a long dry and warm spell in winter the plants should be moistured slightly all-around. If the plants are kept too damp during wintertime they would prematurely shoot. This means that they might get problems with frost and perhaps suffer a long term damage.
As to container-culture covered under glass please treat plants as described under point 5a